What an amazing 7 1/2 days (17 Apr - 28 Apr) I have just experienced, through torrential down pours, ankle deep mud, gradients of up to 60%, humidity and emotional moments. The Kokoda Trail is not for your everyday being. It is not only a physical challenge, but very much a mental challenge. I decided to walk the Kokoda Track with my father as it is something that has hit not only our family but Australia so close to home.
I feel I did so much better than I originally expected -physically. I was in the right frame of mind and in no way was I going to go walking that Track half heartedly or unprepared. But I will say nothing can prepare you for the environment you encounter over there.
Our motto for the whole trip was EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED!
Not a lot went as planned, but in the end it all worked out for the good.
We had to walk about 17kms on the first day (18 Apr 08) before we even arrived at the starting point - Owers Corner. A week’s rain had caused the roads to become slush and we couldn’t gain access. That was a real test for everyone - to walk that far in the rain and mud - falling, slipping and sliding at 0500hrs all before the official track even began!
From day dot some thing had gone wrong - maybe not ‘wrong’ but just not as planned. All this walking, over 20kms later, we still didn’t know if we could cross the Goldie River to get to our first camp site.
I could be here all day writing a novel if I explained everything. But we were behind by one day and we had only just begun. (Trek supposed to be completed in 9 days). We HAD to make it to Isurava for ANZAC Day (25 Apr 08). So here we were getting up at 0400hrs each morning, having the very caring Nationals - Carriers making us breakfast, lunch and dinner, cleaning our plates, for some - carrying their packs and anything else we had asked of them, not knowing what lay ahead.
On our third day 20 Apr 08 we did the inevitable. Trekking from Ofi Creek at 0600hrs, through ‘The Swamp’, over ‘The Wall’ (which soon turned in to a waterfall from the sudden down pour) and in to Manari. The three young guns - Myself, then Jaice and 10mins later Jeremy were the only ones to make it before 1700hrs. My father wasn’t far behind though doing extremely well clocking off for the day around 1730hrs. We had 14 trekkers and not to forget the 5 personal carriers and 20 regular carriers - Nationals). This days trek had never been heard of being conducted before. We were very proud of ourselves.
Plenty more events and obstacles greeted us along the way, but our main goal was Isurava on the 24 Apr 08 for Dawn Service 25 Apr 08. AND we made it. YES we made it BUT the Trek was not over.
ANZAC Day was an extremely emotional morning; with over 400 Trekkers in that one camp site to pay their respects at the War Memorial. Overlooking the mountain ranges was a site never to be forgotten. But as I said earlier, the walking was not over. It was far from it. Once the flags were raised along with the sun, packs were on and one foot after the other we were off again. To Kokoda!!
We made Kokoda by 1500hrs and with one final surprise our Trek Leader, Wayne announced we were spending the night in Buna. Majority of our Carriers were from Buna so they were just as happy. Buna was devastated by the Oct 07 Cyclone, it had wiped out 39 bridges and numerous amounts of houses. Being told it was only 3hrs away by PMV - sitting in/on the back/roof, where ever you can fit, seemed reasonable. 3hrs in to the trip, 2 flat tires later and dusk falling I was close to giving in to temptation and chewing the well known Beatle Nut!! a narcotic, that you see even 4yr olds carrying around. But the rotten, red stained smiles are what kept me at bay. I can’t go losing the pearly whites.
Buna is a village located north of the coast, beautiful beaches and people. After spending 8 days with the Nationals, forming a bond words can’t describe and experiencing not only their every day life, but their history, it was definitely a privilege to meet their families. They welcome you with such warmth and joy, the kids so carefree and bright – harmless as they run around with machetes, just makes you just forget about the pain and aches you went through to get there.
But paradise didn’t last for ever, the next morning we were waiting at the airport in the sun and humidity for 3hrs longer than expected (delayed aircraft) back to Port Moresby we headed. Oh but I forgot to mention my luxury front seat there. I was the chosen one - I got to sit in the jump seat, next to the pilot and experience Air Nuigini first hand!!!
In closing, I definitely recommend walking the Kokoda Track. I do advise you are fit and sound as it is not just a walk in the park. Like I said you can train and train but always ‘Expect the Unexpected’ especially the weather! Respect the land and the people and why/how the Kokoda Track was formed in the first place.
The Nationals are such wonderful people. What they went through in 1942 was simply unimaginable. I had the pleasure of meeting two of the Original Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels and it just makes your heart break when you hear their stories. One was 102yrs old and the other 92 yrs old.
Courage - Endurance – Mate ship - Sacrifice
(Words engraved on the Isurava Memorial Head Stones)
Live Long Live Strong
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